Friday, December 10, 2010

VIV.


VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
's new collection is brilliant!
The shapes, draping, fabrics and colours are spot on! 
This dress worn by Sarah Jessica Parker is nothing short of dreamy.


Viv's ANGLOMANIA collection is as edgy as always - My fave coat this winter:





Butterfly coat £590

I have to say as far as outerwear goes the 'cocoon' has to be one of my favourite shapes.
Cinched in waists are great but when it's cold you want to be able to layer up, but also close your buttons...for those of us that aren't size minus zero that is! 

Tuesday, December 07, 2010

Jack Wills





Jack Wills is a young fashion brand that also fits in to the life-style category. 

It's niche is traditional English attire. The Brand was set up over ten years ago. 
In order to lift Jack Wills off it's feet, the founders decided to send the clothes for free to all of the poshest, most expensive private and boarding schools. 

Thus it came about, that the 'type' of people wearing them were the upper middle classes. These days they are a well known sub culture and referred to in many colloquial terms; 

'SLOANEY PONIES'... Many live in the expensive South West of London known as Sloane Square/Chelsea. 

'TOFF' is another word; A slang term used to describe upper-class/wealthy people. 

My personal favourite is: 
'RAH': A person with a posh accent who looks down on those who are common. 

Urban Dictionary's definition;

"Someone who went to private school (or wish they had), likes rugby (not football), probably a member of rowing, sailing or yachting club, refer to their parents as "Mummy and Daddy". Boys: often seen to be wearing a lemon (or any pastel shade) sweatshirt slung casually over their shoulders and deck Shoes.
Girls: Dress similar to that of boys along with pearls, numerous shopping bags and Daddy's credit card.
Names often include: Rupert, Will, Guy, Emily, Alexandra, Henrietta. Followed by a double/triple barrelled surname, e.g. Harrington-Smythe.

Look at her, she is so rah."

I love this definition, to me it could not be more accurate... Jack Wills was created for those who have money. 
High quality fabrics and materials have been used, the difference from JW and say Barbour is that JW  has cleverly created a perfect juxtaposition; The rich silk linings and cashmeres have been manipulated into clothes that are of a very eclectic nature, this is where the term 'preppy' comes from. Traditionally those who dressed 'preppy' in mismatched colours and layers of everything, were the poor. They did not have the money to buy preen matching twinsets. 

The social differences between the lower and upper classes has increasingly become blurred. One perfect example I can give you is of the early 70s band 'Blondie'. Lead singer Debbie Harry was a major style icon, her look was copied all over the world and still is today...



...In an interview for Vogue Harry said that she couldn't afford clothes so used to buy from charity shops, throw things together and customise. Rock n' roll and punk was entertained by the working class masses, and not those by the name of Tarquin who had to attend opera lessons after a hefty game of Polo. However because this was 'cool' and those with money are generally known to get what they want, so not to be social outcastes they now can still go to a pop concert after Canoeing. 

This all ties in with what JW is all about- It's a 'University Outfitters'. For the young, foot-loose and fancy free generation of today but with a touch of 'posh'.

I am not attacking, as I am in two minds about it. I do not agree with a unique style being branded and then sold at a rather over priced amount, with a Varsity Polo collection thrown in for good measure and to keep up the middle/upper class touch.
However, it does make good business sense. JW has carved out a niche and had a turnover of £42million last year...SO I won't argue. Personally I am the type of person who loves my Hunters and Barbour's not because they are branded under the category of being 'posh' but because they are brands that have a great heritage and respect the lost art of thoughtful workmanship. All the items have a lot of design thought gone into them as well as being long lasting and never going out of fashion. It's simply co-incidence that the posh wear them.

For a long time now I have been observing these so called Rah's and this is my conclusion...

A female Rah has bleached blonde hair, the entire mane is swept over to one side, as if she has been caught in a  raging storm and is often to be seen donning a plain not too mini- denim mini skirt. Or duo of Jack Wills/Abercrombie/Hollister tracksuit tucked into a pair of Uggs. 

The Male counterpart:
Overgrown hair, washed and full of bounce. Loafers on the feet. In the summer a Hackett Polo and a pair of Tweed shorts to keep out the windy chill. 

This trend will always have it's place and i do commend it for sweeping so many people into it's hysteria. 


Ironically, this photo is of my sister walking down Sloane Square clutching yes... you're right a 'Jack Wills bag. 

...and this is what she bought...


Chilcombe Cable Sweater £69.
...Until I saw it and made her take it back that is.
Yes it's a lovely sweater made from 100% luxury 
lambswool. My main issue wasn't that as a keen knitter I'm sure given the correct wool I could whip this up... but what is really so great about it?? The little bird logo that defines it as being a sweater worn by a 'posh kid'?

What they say about themselves:


Hmmmmmmm...I cannot say this agrees with me "Hedonistic" I maybe even find it slightly offensive but lets face it, admitted or not, it is generally proven to be the case that University students do have a hedonistic/party/care free lifestyle. 

For years now the Jack Wills Catalogue has been coming through the post every season. It usually has about four models used to create a story. Very pretty, fairly natural and young. 







But is it right they only employ those that were born with exceedingly good looks and only use caucasian models in their advertisements???

In conclusion, i'm on the fence: Fair play... they look good, it's essentially a BRITISH label, so to some extent it makes sense they use white kids. 
If that's the look you go for and what you want represent yourself as, then so be it. 

When walking around the store on the King's Road I can't say I felt entirely comfortable, being in a place where i was buying in to a lifestyle of wanting to be something else. Something I am not... 
I'm an asian girl who looks like a cross between a Greek and an Israeli, I create my own style, obviously trends influence, but my culture, WHAT I CHOOSE and like and can afford make my lifestyle not what is put together for me.

Confession: When i was in the shop I bought a ticket holder for my Oyster but it was because I liked it, it was sturdy, it would hold my endless amounts of train tickets and the main reason; I needed it. Not because it stamped me with a huge pink and blue sign of 

'I WEAR JACK WILLS, THERFORE I AM'...
Although I can see this as a marketing campaign. 
It is said that the posh can afford that aura of arrogance...'xoxo'


Tidmington Travel Pass Holder £5

Jack Wills. SW1 London, Kings Road.


Sunday, December 05, 2010

Sass and Bide

 



I am in love with this Sass and Bide 
dress that 
Rebecca Ferguson wore yesterday on the 
X-Factor. The geometric shapes contour 
the body and the mirror 
detailing add a whisp of edginess.

More from S&S...